ANY QUESTIONS ?

 

    • 1] NO MORE GRAVEL CLEANING

    • Clear Water. Healthier Fish.
    • If you’re spending hours vacuuming gravel and doing water changes, this setup can cut maintenance down to minutes. It keeps waste moving, water clearer, and upkeep predictable.
      What You’ll Need
      • Under-gravel filter tray
      • 2 uptake tubes
      • Funnel
      • Coarse lava rock (½-inch works best)
      • Magnetic glass cleaners
      • Plastic plant holders
      • Superglue
      • Wet & dry vacuum
      Tank Setup for 
    • Automatic gravel cleaning with the filter
      1. Empty the tank completely.
      2. Place the under-gravel filter tray on the bottom.
      3. Attach your filter intake to one uptake tube.
      4. Leave the filter outflow as it normally is.
      5. Attach a funnel to the second uptake tube.
      6. Add a thin layer of gravel or coarse lava rock on top.
      Tip: Larger rock traps far less waste than fine gravel, which helps prevent buildup.

    • 2] NO MORE PLANT SUBSTRATE MESS

    • Plant Setup HackNo substrate changes. Ever.Instead of planting directly into the substrate:
      1. Take two magnetic glass cleaners.
      2. Superglue plastic plant holders to the wet-side magnets.
      3. Add plants and a small amount of substrate to each holder.
      4. Attach the magnets to the back wall of the tank.
      Keeping plants off the bottom prevents roots from binding into the gravel.Why this helps
      • You can move plants anytime without getting wet.
      • No uprooting. No clouding the tank.
      • The main substrate never needs replacing.
      • Just add a root tab directly into each holder every few months.
      Tip - Filling the Tank
    • Place a garden hose into the funnel attached to the uptake tube.The tank fills quickly without disturbing or clouding the substrate.

    • 3] NO MORE  DRAGGING BUCKETS AND GARDEN HOSE  FOR WATER CHANGES

    • Fast Water Change Hack
      1. Connect a wet & dry vacuum to the funnel.
      2. Turn it on. Strong suction pulls fish waste out in 5–10 seconds.
      3. Waste collects directly in the vacuum bucket.
      4. Rinse filter sponges in the dirty vacuum water.
      5. Refill the tank through the funnel with treated fresh water.
      No siphons.
      No stirring gravel.
      No mess.
      Why This System Works
      • Large rock holds less trapped waste.
      • Waste lifts into the filter instead of settling deep into substrate.
      • Oxygen-rich flow supports beneficial bacteria.
      • Cleaner substrate keeps water chemistry more stable.
      • Maintenance stays fast and predictable.

    • 4] NO MORE  BREAKING THE BACK CLEANING THE FILTERS

    • This requires an upgaded tank with bottom sump filter system.
    • A bottom sump increases stability and reduces fish loss, especially in heavily stocked tanks.Key Benefits
      • Large surface area for beneficial bacteria
      • Better waste flow
      • Option to add a plant refugium for ammonia control
      Basic Sump SetupCabinet
      • Must be flat, level, and strong
      • Should support up to 600 kg
      Plumbing
      • Hand-tighten fittings only
      • Use plumbing tape
      • Follow the plumbing layout carefully
      Equipment
      • Return pump
      • Heater (22–28°C depending on species)
      • UV filter
      • Clip-on LED light
      • Filter sponges and biological media
      First Start
      1. Fill the system slowly.
      2. Check carefully for leaks.
      3. Start the return pump.
      4. Aim flow in a circular pattern inside the tank.
      5. Add hardy plants to the sump if using one.

    • 5] NO MORE  DEAD FISH - PROTECTING THEM THE NATURE S' WAY - THE NITREOGEN CYCLE.

    • Cycling the Tank
      1. Add water conditioner.
      2. Add live bacteria.
      3. Add a small pinch of fish food to feed the bacteria.
      4. Let the system run for 7 - 14 days and test the water - the ammonia should read -ZERO - The tank is ready for fish at this stage only .
      Tip - Cloudy water until  this stage is normal.

    • 6] ADDING NEW FISH

      • Test water after 1–2 weeks.

      • Only add fish when ammonia and nitrites read 0.

      • Add no more than two fish per week.

      • Climatize the water of the tank and the water in the plastic bag that the fish is in - at least for 1 hour  , before releasing the fish into his new tank.

      Remember , slow stocking prevents crashes and fish death .

      7 ] MONTHLY CARE -NON NEGOTIABLE.

      • Test water parameters , once a week on a set date  .
      • If ammonia rises above zeo ppm , change 25% of the water -IMMIDIATELY.
      • If weekly ammonia test reads  zero - wait for the 30 day cycle to change the water .
      • Rinse sponges in the removed old  tank water only, never use tap water soap or any additives- just soak and squeeze a few times and reaplce within 5 minutes  . Every passing minute outside the water column - kills the live bacteria . 
      • Add a capful of bacteria booster  and a capful of anti ammonia [ seachem prime  ] if water parameters are out of whack.
      • Refill with treated[ antichlorine added ]  fresh water.

8. Tank Size & Filter Guidelines

The main reason for tank crashes is too many fish in a small tank , and substandered filtering .

Fish Type Tank Size Filtration Temperature Feeding Notes
Goldfish 200 L / 6 fish Powerful bottom sump or canister Room temp Twice daily, sinking pellets Horizontal tanks; plants in sump only
Discus / Angelfish 200 L / 6 fish Strong sump or canister 28°C Automatic feeder, 3x/day Vertical tanks; flowing plants; monthly water changes
Betta 10–20 L / 1 fish Low-flow filter 25°C 1–2 small pellet feeds/day Waterfall outlet; resting leaf; never house with other fish
Community Tank 100 L / 12–18 fish Moderate to excellent 24°C Twice daily Compatible: tetras, guppies, danios, barbs (except tiger); 25% water change monthly; protect water inlets